St Lucia - a World Heritage Site

Tuesday 29th January
With fierce hugs and moist eyes, we said farewell  to the Campbell family and headed along the coast, north of Durban towards St Lucia and the iSimangaliso Wetland park.
The iSimangaliso (formally Greater St Lucia) Wetland Park is South Africa's first Natural World Heritage Site and is the most ecologically and historically diverse park in Southern Africa.The unique mosaic of ecosystems - swamps, lakes, beaches, coral reef, wetlands, woodlands, coastal forests and grasslands - support an astounding variety of animal, bird and marine life. The name of the wetlands park was changed in 2007 in an effort to give the park a name that reflects its unique identity.

Enjoy that Dom Pedro!

We arrived at our guest house, Umlilo lodge by mid afternoon. and checked in after collecting our three day itinerary at the Heritage Safari and Tours office. The lush tropical gardens of the lodge provided a cool haven and we were almost seduced into staying in for the evening, however our first tour was an evening game drive into the iSimangaliso game park. Having a few hours to spare before the game drive we headed off to explore our surroundings. We enjoyed an early dinner at the Ski-Boat club overlooking the St Lucia estuary and watched hippo in the water as we drank Dom Pedros.

We were collected from the lodge at 7:00pm and found that we were a small party; there was just one other couple to share our guide, Brian's attentions. The iSimangaliso game park was no disappointment and we were treated to a wide variety of animals and night birds. To name but a few, we saw grazing hippo, buffalo, waterbuck and numerous bushbuck, not to mention a tiny chameleon that was trying to hide itself on a blade of grass. We were even treated to a glimpse of the illusive serval cat.

Wednesday 30th January

An hour's drive inland of St Lucia is the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi game park. We were collected once again at the lodge at 5:00am for our full day game drive. This was a bit of a shock to the system as we only got back from the night drive at 10:00 the previous evening and had to be up shortly after 4:15 to be ready in time. However, we were certainly glad that we didn't miss it as we were once again treated to a spectacular day of game viewing. The only sad part was that we didn't see any of the big cats, but what we did see more than made up for it. Here are a few photos to give you an idea.

Ian is once again afflicted with an upset constitution so I do hope he will feel better in time for our next adventure tomorrow. I think an early night is called for to give him a chance to recover.

Time to say good bye to the Campbells

Saturday 26th January
David's birthday today. Sorry that we were not with you but we hope you had a really good day, we certainly did. The morning was spent on the deck overlooking the beach. The breezes coming off the sea were lovely. I set up the sewing machine and made a kaftan for Tracy while Dale and Ian went off to the fish market to get a box (or three) of queen prawns and some crab to go with the scallops that we had bought earlier. All the shopping was in preparation for a fish braai that was planned for Sunday.
The evening was a highlight for all of us. Ian and I went with the extended Campbell family to meet Beth and Cliff as well as Robynne and Dave for dinner. Cliff had been away on business when we visited Beth so it was wonderful to see him again. It was probably 28 years since I last saw him. Although it was difficult to have a really good catch up with Cliff, it was a memorable evening  and I'm so happy that we were able to meet again. Megan and Beth immediately found something in common and that is the Midmar Mile. It's a charity swimming race that Beth is attempting for the first time and Megan has done twice before.

Sunday 27th January

Molly

It was an overcast start to the day and the grey clouds hung moodily over the sea. A thin line of shimmering  silver divided the sea from the clouds. I was sure that the sun was shining over the horizon and as I watched, a break in the clouds allowed a sunbeam to light up a patch of the sea like molten gold. how beautiful the mornings have been. As usual, Molly, the family dog kept me company as I enjoyed a cup of tea and a tranquil moment.

The household was soon buzzing as the young people filled every available space and multiple conversations were going on at the same time. How they have all grown since we saw them last.

Tracy, Dale, Trevor, Ian & Grandfather Ian, Megan and Mike's back

Mike & Jacque

Megan & Nick

The fish braai (BBQ as we know it) was a tremendous success. and there were even some prawns left over to make a prawn and avocado salad for the following day.








Monday 28th January

I had been promising Molly a walk on the beach for days but each time we had gone out, somehow we had managed to leave her behind. I guess that we are not used to having a dog with us. This morning we fulfilled our promise but it was more like a joyful Molly who took us for a walk to the beach. Tracy and I walked along the water's edge while Dale and Ian preferred the higher ground. Molly was happy to race between all of us when she was not digging holes looking for sand crabs. It was so funny when she finally unearthed one, she really didn't know what to do with it and when it nipped her on the snout she quickly lost interest.

Cherryl, Dale and Tracy

The Campbell family

Tracy at home in Cambridge Mews

We arrived in Amamzantoti in time for lunch with Dale and Tracy and as you might expect, from the time we opened the car doors we didn't stop talking - sometimes all at once.
In the cool of the air conditioned bar, Ian and I were reintroduced to Brutal Fruit. This alcoholic beverage should come with a hazard warning. Tasting very much like J2O, it's very easy to drink too much so we were distracted with a lovely stroll on the beach. After the winter temperatures of England, the warm sea and brisk winds were heavenly.



Tuesday 22nd January
The day was to start with breakfast on the beach - which is a five minute walk from the house but because we couldn't stop talking we sat on the deck patio drinking coffee well into mid morning so it was more like lunch time before we ate.

Standing on the deck in the garden, we were able to watch the dolphins frolicking in the sea. There was a pod of 8 or more dolphins and we were so entranced that the time simply slipped away from us. We watched the rain coming in on the horizon as a grey curtain but the cloud dropped its load before reaching shore. The cooler breeze made it very pleasant.

The family all arrived in the evening for a meal that was cooked on the scottle in the garden. The family included grandfather Ian, Trevor, (who had kindly given up his room for us and gone to stay with his grandfather) Mike and girlfriend Jackie, and Megan. We were a happy crowd as the sun set over the sea and many different topics of conversation flowed over each other in ever increasing volume. (I would have liked to post a picture but unfortunately, the we had a small problem with the camera and we lost the pictures)

Wednesday 23rd January
Dale had been under a lot of pressure with changes at work and he was recalled from leave for the day to attend meetings. While he was preoccupied with the meeting content, Ian, Tracy and I went for a walk on the beach. It was a very hot and humid day and despite the sea breezes we still felt the heat. At certain points along the beach there are showers for bathers to sluice down so we all ran through the showers like children playing in the rain. It certainly cooled us down.

We returned home to find that Dale's meeting had been brought forward and he had left for the office. We too decided to use the day productively. While Ian helped Tracy to recover the seats of the bar stools and dining room chairs, I made some kaftans (or lounge suits as Tracy called them) so that I could be cool and comfortable in the evenings.

Mid afternoon we abandoned our cottage industry activities and went to the 'Thirsty Whale' (which doesn't need any explanation as to what it is) to slate our thirst. The family - including Dale - joined us a little later and we had a tapas type meal overlooking the sea.

Thursday 24th January
Another perfect day in Africa! Before the family stirred, I took the opportunity to have some quite time and write this blog. Molly, the family dog sat on the deckchair watching me as if I were demented. this is not something she is used to! The sea is a a blue-grey and the sound of the waves crashing on the beach really enhances the holiday feel. I could sit here forever as I watch the weaver birds darting backward and forward gathering nesting material.

We had breakfast on the beach which had become the normal start to the day, before walking along the sea front. The day became hot and sticky so we made our way back to the house to sit in the luxury of air conditioned comfort. Tracy had brought out the board game '30 seconds' and we had started a game when the children arrived. We split the teams into girls and boys and continued to play the game. Needless to say, girls won but only by a whisker.

Friday 25th January
We were all up early and after breakfast-on-the-run,Tracy, Megan, and I squeezed into the back of the car with Dale and Ian in the front and we set off for the hour and a half drive to Karkloof. We had booked to take the Karkloof canopy tour which takes place in the second largest indigenous forest in South Africa.

Ian down the rabbit hole

After a safety briefing we all donned our harnesses and helmets and climbed into the back of a pick-up. Driving down the dusty, winding road we were introduced to the Samango monkeys that followed our progress for a short while. A few minutes later we found ourselves walking along the narrow beaten tracks that led to the first platform aptly named the Rabbit Hole - because it looked remarkably like the rabbit hole that Alice tumbled down one her way to Wonderland.
The guides attached us to the zip wire and one by one we plunged off the platform. The first plunge was a short one of 60 meters which took us to the next platform called Last Chance. If we wanted to turn back, this was our last chance to do so.

Lara (Megan) Croft

 Needless to say, none of us turned back. The next zip wire was one of the longest and was 35 meters above the canopy. It was on this zip wire that we fully appreciated for the first time exactly what we had got ourselves into! Tracy got stuck a good 20 meters from the platform and had to be rescued. Megan, on the other hand, took to it like a duck to water and was even relaxed enough to pose like Lara Croft on the runs.

At the end of eight runs, we walked back to home base through the beautiful valley floor where a snack lunch waited for us on the veranda. A wonderful experience never to be forgotten. Back home that evening, Dale treated us to a home made bunny chow (a half loaf of bread, scooped out, and filled with curry) to round off the day.

Above the canopy at Karkloof

Durban

Weekend 19th and 20th January
The sounds of Africa have been greeting us each morning and I have been waking up before 6:00 am. It's difficult to stay in bed under such lovely conditions so I have been getting up and enjoying a cup of tea before anyone else is up.
The day started with blue sky and bright sunshine but the forecast was for rain. Beth thought we would like to have morning coffee overlooking the Valley of a Thousand Hills at a favourite place called The Pot and Kettle.  We sat on the spacious veranda  and watched the deluge of rain while we chatted over coffee. The rain was certainly not going to spoil our day.

Beth and Ian at The Pot and Kettle

Later we met up with Robynne and Dave for a braai (BBQ). The table was laden with a variety of food that was enough to feed the 5000. I couldn't help going back for more. Note to self - must watch this if I want my clothes to fit me by the end of the holiday.

Sunday started with blue sky and bright sunshine and we had a date with the sea front before meeting Malcolm, Dylan and Jani (Beth and Cliff's sons and daughter-in-law) for lunch at the Mug & Bean. After lunch, Beth, Ian and I strolled along the sea front in the direction of the new Moses Mabida stadium. Beth had assured us that it was a sight to see and I have to say that it really is spectacular. We hoped to take the sky train which takes passengers over the top of the stadium but it wasn't in operation so we took a photo instead.
We had tea with Cliff's parents in the afternoon and rounded the day off with a Sunday evening service at the Baptist church that Dylan is a member of.

Ian, Dylan, Norman
Cherryl, Beth and Jani

All too soon our stay was drawing to a close and we said  a sad farewell to the Smith family while looking forward to meeting the Campbell family once again.

In the beginning......

16th January 3:40 pm

As soon as the online booking opened (24 hrs before the flight) we tried to check in online but it appeared that everyone else had the same idea and we kept getting a message to say 'try again later'. Well it wasn't until this morning that we could successfully check in and by that time, the seats we wanted had been taken. Blast! We could only get seats in the middle of a row; never mind, we had seats and we were not flying economy class.

After locking up Winedown, it was a short taxi ride to Calcot to get the National express. The taxi arrived early and we found ourselves at the coach stop with 45 minutes to kill. Since the temperature had not been above -1 all day we decided to take refuge in Mac Donald's for a cup of coffee.

Nearly 5 hours later we were finally boarding our flight and had a lovely surprise to find that we had been upgraded to business class. Jammy! Our holiday was off to a great start after all.

17th January 11:05

We had left Heathrow 45 minutes late but we still arrived in Johannesburg on time.
After collecting the hire car, we made our way to Thatches of Bryanston where we were staying for the night and what a night it turned out to be.

Carol and Ken who own Thatches of Bryanston had hosted Tanya's wedding reception all those years ago and we make a point of returning when we are in Johannesburg. As ever we had a very warm welcome. Dinner was served on the patio near the pool, where we were seated around a  magnificent table. The wonderful meal was washed down with copious glasses of wine followed by liqueur. It wasn't until the small hours of the morning that we took our leave from our hospitable hosts and went to bed.

18th January

Well we brought the rain with us but at least I can say that we escaped in the nick of time. Thank goodness we missed all the snow disruption. As we were having breakfast, the light drizzle turned to heavy rain and Carol told us that rain was forecast for the whole weekend. It certainly made driving to Durban a little more difficult than we had anticipated.
After negotiating traffic hazards we left Johannesburg behind cloaked in rain. The drive was pretty much uneventful and we arrived in Durban shortly after 5:00 pm to a wonderful welcome. Unfortunately, Cliff had been sent away on business but Beth was there to greet us and introduce us to her two sons.
After dinner, we went to the Durban seafront and met up with Robynne and she introduced us to her husband Dave (Robynne and Beth had visited us in the summer and spent a few days with us on our boat). We were taken to a restaurant on the pier where we sat overlooking the sea and watched the huge tankers being piloted into the harbour. As we chatted, we were treated to impromptu entertainment as a group of singers delighted us with their talents.
Returning along the seafront, the heavens opened and we were all soaked in a deluge of warm rain. I felt like a child as the excitement surged through me. It has been a long time since I was able to run in rain pelting down like a warm power shower.

14th Jan

As Sunday draws to a close we say good bye to James and Phoebe. We spent a lovely lunchtime with them at the American Diner in Kingsclere. Lee and Hannah dropped the children off while they went to the cinema to watch The Hobbit. We looked for a restaurant where we could find things that both children would like and Nelsons Diner seem to fit the bill.

Phoebe tucked in to a huge Boston brownie and ice cream as her main course while James relished his cheesy chips with gammon and eggs. I am glad that I don't have to worry about getting them to eat 'real' food.

We now have suitcases packed, passports in order, visas bought, and the itinerary finalised.

Ian has spent many hours surfing the Internet, scanning Trip Advisor as well as booking.com, reading reviews and even referring to hard copy holiday guides. All this has been to plan an epic 'round the world in 90 days' adventure. Here are a few statistics, we have booked  11 flights; 1 ferry; 3 train journeys; 1 sailing ship (Tall Ship); 6 hire cars; 2 coach trips and 24 hotels across 3 continents (4 if you include Europe) and this doesn't include the bookings that friends and family have done on our behalf. It is truly amazing just how much the Internet has changed our lives. 

The countdown continues as we only have 2 days before we fly out of Heathrow. With snow forecast, we sincerely hope it doesn't all go wrong before it starts!

New Year's Day 2013

New Year's Day was a lovely sunny day and really mild for the time of the year - Ian was even running around in a t shirt (and jeans of course).

The marina hosted its usual New Year BBQ  which was well attended. The car park was as full as it usually is in mid summer, but the number of boats that had smoke drifting  from chimneys was a reminder that it was really winter.

This year I decided to make a potjie and couscous for our lunch rather than the usual burgers and hot dogs. I still entered into the spirit of the day by putting the three legged pot in the bonfire embers to finish cooking.
Shortly before lunch, Tanya and David arrived with Daniel to join in the festivities.

After lunch the boat race got under way. There is only one rule to be abided by in order to enter the race. The boat has to be home made! Boats of all shapes and sizes were entered. One as basic as a balloon attached to a piece of wood while another was a finely decorated dish washing liquid bottle with a paper hat as a sail.
Daniel entered his boat, a sailing battle ship made of a plastic foam composition.  The kit had  been a Christmas present and he had built it with the help of his Dad.

The idea is that the boats, once launched, are left to their own devices and propelled by any slight breeze that may be around.  The finish line is downwind of the start line and whichever boat crosses the finish line first -whenever that is -is the winner. Needless to say some boats end up in the reeds, some sink and only few make it to the end. Daniel's boat had a good start but quickly floundered as it was blown under the pontoon of moored narrowboats.  Nevertheless it was a great race .

All too soon, the BBQ fire and the flames on the bonfire had died down and the evening was closing in. Daniel was to stay with us for the rest of the week so Tanya and David packed up their car and bid us all farewell.  And so the first day in 2013 ended on a high note. I hope this is an indication of how the rest of the year will pan out.