Monday 25 March 2013

Mission Estate Winery, Lake Taupo, and Rotorua

Thursday 21st March (Autumn Equinox) The sun peeped through the clouds this morning and we could feel its warming effect on the window of our motel room. There was still a lot of cloud around but with the promise of a better day, we checked out of the motel in Napier, Hawke's Bay. At the reception, Ken told us about Mission Estate Winery on the outskirts of Napier and as it was only a two hour drive to Lake Taupo (our next destination) we decided to pay the winery a visit.

Mission Estate Winery is New Zealand's oldest winery and the birthplace of New Zealand wine and was established in 1851 by the French Marist religious order. We had a cup of coffee on the beautiful terrace while we waited for the (free) historical tour and all this time, the clouds were thinning and the sun was strengthening.



It will be difficult to give a potted history of this fascinating Winery but we were so intrigued by the things we heard, that I feel I must try. Trevor, our guide told a compelling story as he related a history that include surviving floods, earthquakes and even cutting the building into 11 pieces to relocate it to firmer ground.

A group of French Missionaries sailed to New Zealand in 1838 (two years before the country became a British Colony) with little more than their faith and a few vines. As was the way of many settlers, the Fathers needed to sustain themselves and by 1851 they were running a balanced farm property of fruit trees, cattle and a vineyard.

Since the religious order was a training order, there had to be accommodation for older retiring Fathers and new students and so in 1880 the two story house that is still the heart of the estate today was built. It was known as La Grande Maison or the "big house" and became the home for the early French Marists for more than thirty years. As time went on more frequent floods were experienced and following a disastrous flood in 1897, the Fathers decided that the house should be moved to higher ground, so they set about purchasing land and making arrangements. In 1910 the Mission Building was cut into eleven sections  and rolled on logs and pulled by traction engines into its present position. The journey took two days.





The driveway is marked by 57 London Plane Trees which were planted in 1911.









On 3rd February 1931 the earthquake that struck Hawke's Bay and reduced the city of Napier to rubble, caused serious damage to the entire mission. Two priests and seven students were killed when the stone chapel collapsed.
The story of the Mission is told on a wood carving that hangs in the main hall.
More information can be found at www.missionestate.co.nz/our_story/history




We rounded off the morning with lunch at the Mission restaurant before leaving for Lake Taupo, New Zealand's largest fresh water lake surrounded by stunning volcanoes and bush-clad mountains, at the epicentre of geothermal activity.
Lake Taupo was formed by a massive volcanic eruption some 26 500 years ago. The bang blew a 660 sq km hole in the earth and sent ash flying all over the world - even China felt the blast. Almost every 1000 years since there has been volcanic activity with the last eruption occurring 1800 years ago. Therefore the next eruption is 800 years overdue.





Later in the afternoon, we went sailing (what a juxtaposition) on board Barbary, a beautifully restored 1926 classic yacht allegedly once owned by the Hollywood actor Errol Flynn. Barbary, with owner Jamie Looner at the helm, took us across the lake to the Maori rock carvings. We had a lovely BBQ on board as the sun set behind the hills and later returned to Barbary's berth.
A perfect end to another perfect day - and thankfully no eruption.





Friday 22nd March
The sun and warm weather has returned. A slight morning chill was the only reminder that Autumn is approaching in this part of the world.


After the domestic chore of washing was done, Ian and I went off to explore the Huka falls, Aratiatia Rapids and surrounding area. Huka falls are to be found on the Waikato River, the only river that flows out of Lake Taupo. Although they do not fall from a dramatic height, the waters of the river are forced through a 15m wide chasm and leap over an 11m ledge to form a deep semi-circular basin. A bridge crosses the chasm just above the falls and a number of viewing points that gives public access to nature's beauty.

Below the falls, the river has been damned in order to harness its energy to provide hydro-electric power at eight power stations down river. Several times a day, for a period of 15 to 20 minutes, water is released from the Aratiatia dam at a rate of 80 000 litres per second. What a resplendent spectacle to watch the sluice gates open to release a torrent of water that rages down the natural path along which the river once flowed, creating the impressive Fuljames Rapids.













Twenty minutes later, the gates closed and the river was returned to a tranquil stream, as if it had never happened. We overheard a conversation where a local said that this part of the river had been used to film a scene in The Lord of the Rings.
Later, we returned to the motel after visiting the prawn park where we bought prawns for our supper.





Saturday 23rd March
Packing up again, we left Tarpo behind and headed for Orakei Korako, the hidden valley. Along the road we could see fumaroles steaming out of the ground, some of them sending plumes of stream into the air while others released mere wisps. It was a reminder that the middle of the North Island is the epicentre of volcanic activity.
Orakei Korako is an unspoilt geothermal wonderland, one of natures true gifts. We took the little boat across the Waikato river, into a world of boiling mud pools and huge silica terraces. There are also active (gushing) geysers and while we saw them bubbling, we were not lucky enough to see them gush.
Rianna and Michelle surprised us by meeting us in Rotorua and we spent the afternoon on the waterfront. The Lady Janes did the most sumptuous range of ice cream so we all indulged. With over 50 flavours to choose from it was a difficult choice. With melting ice cream dripping between our fingers, we sat on a bench and lazily watched a sea plane taking off and landing on the lake.

Later, Ian and I went off to a Maori experience while Rianna and Michele (who had seen it all before) remained behind. Glen and Toni (the motel owners) had gone out of their way to secure us a place (at a discounted rate) on the tour. Toni had run out of booking vouchers and rather than simply say "sorry, I can't help you" she obtained vouchers from another motel.




We were collected from the motel and taken to a venue in a natural bush setting where we met the Mitai, descendants of the ancient people of the land. The  Maori warriors, in traditional dress, arrived paddling a waka (ancient war canoe) down the Wai-o-whiro stream. The stream is fed by crystal clear water that flows directly from a sacred spring, which releases over twenty four million litres of pure spring water every day.



We were then treated to a fascinating cultural performance. Through song and dance, the performers told the tales of how the Mitai people interacted with European settlers, they explained their customs and traditions, their carvings and ta moko (tattooing). There was a display of weaponry and combat where each piece was explained and its use demonstrated. This was balanced by the grace of the poi dance, the dance of love. We heard stories of the land which culminated in the well known, spine tingling Haka. At the end of the performance we were treated to a hangi dinner (a dinner of lamb, chicken and sweet potato that was cooked in a pit) and finished the evening with a guided bush walk that ended in a glow worm del beside the sacred spring.

On returning to the motel, we found Rianna and Michelle in the company of Glen and Toni and we were invited in for a night cap which we accepted. It was a lovely end to a very full day.

Sunday 24th March
Tourism is one of Rotorua's key economic drivers and that much was evident. Rianna called it
Rotor-Vagas.



We were not quite prepared for this after the tranquil Lake Taupo and so we insisted on visiting geothermal places of interest rather than the commercially orientated theme parks.





We walked through the municipal park where we were able to feel the hot water, watch pukekos (a native New Zealand bird) in the reeds and dip our feet in thermally heated pools as well witness the bubbling mud pools.





Later, we indulged the younger people and took the gondola ride to the best views of Rotorua and surrounds. Rianna and Michele went on the rides while Ian and I enjoyed a cuppa on the terrace overlooking Rotorua Lake and enjoyed a quiet moment of relaxation.






The evening was rounded off with the setting sun and a friendly glass of wine with the motel owners, Glen and Toni.








Monday 25th March
Rianna and Michelle had to be at the airport by 6:30 and I had offered to take them. It was a rude awakening to a new day; a day where we move on to another part of North Island New Zealand.
Today would be all about driving as we went from Rotorua to Whangarei. On route was the town Matamata where one might find the Hobbiton movie set that was featured in Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit. The information centre was constructed on similar lines to a Hobbit house so it was not difficult to find.We parked the car and went to find out where and how we could visit the movie set. Suffice to say, we chocked at the exorbitant fee that was being charged for a 2 hour guided tour - the only way to gain entry. The tour included a drive through a picturesque 1250 acre sheep farm so just how much time you would spend being whisked through the movie set and ejected out of the other side was anyone's guess. Needless to say, we declined the tour and had a delicious brunch in a coffee shop facing the Hobbit like information centre. We look forward to seeing the movie!



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